Lesbos on Lesvos!
Well, if this is our promised land….bring it on.
Mosaics, Ruins from C8 BC just lying around, castles, water views and scenery just like the new territories of Hong Kong (plus olive trees). Huge mountains rising out of the water into the clouds. There are definitely a few dragons sleeping in Lesvos.
It was amazing, seriously do dip me in honey-and sheep yoghurt (what a combo) and throw me to the lesbians!!
We had a wonderful week. It started in Mytilene where we picked up our hire car/go cart. Then C drove through town (in the dark) about six times while I tried to find the road of the hotel.
I was alternating between cracking that old chestnut “it’s all Greek to me” (impossible to resist) and getting slightly……frustrated.
Turns out we were looking for a different st anyway (the guy at the car rental had kindly marked the hotel for us- but WRONG)
We finally found hotel nikos, met nikos himself and after a lovely meal (at his favourite restaurant) of broccoli that had been cooked for a week and overcooked chicken and fish we spent a freezing night in our weird smelling room. What was even funnier really was the restaurant didn’t have stuff on the menu (it was out of season) so she took us into the kitchen and literally showed us what she had.
After this inauspicious start, we woke, wandered around a bit then headed up to the UNESCO protected town of mythimna or molyvos.
The house was on the outskirts of town, truly beautiful. There were chooks for fresh eggs and a dog called benjy we could walk if we liked, 2 cats and some wild tortoises!!
We walked everyday, into town, down to the beach and up to the castle. It was gorgeous.
On our second night there was a raging thunderstorm and we stoked up the wood fire and enjoyed our Daphne and Chloe organic red (E8 a bottle rather than E2 I think the shop keeper thought we were mad!)
The show was magnificent as the storm passed right over us. In addition, as most people know, we both LOVE picking up rubbish. We gave up complaining about it and have picked up rubbish from most places in Australia; Randwick, Hobart, Balmoral to ningaloo reef.
Anyway, the storm also made our holiday heaps better coz everyday we would take benjy down to the beach and pick up a couple of bag fulls. That beach was covered in plastic bags, bottles, polystyrene, fishing stuff and it was pretty much all gone by the time we left. A good job jobbed! No messages in a bottle or Greek pots though.
Lesvos has loads of layers of history. Some we tried but failed to see-damn you ancient pyrrha! Some we saw, the Etruscan road, roman houses and graves and “lesbian style” wall amazing really, flat faced hexagonal wall tiles, unearthed when they started renovations.
If you start to build in Greece, first the archaeologists come and either dig and take away what is there, or if they can’t, they give you a different plot of land!
Luckily we got into the new museum, the old one was shut, where we saw these amazing mosaics, the floors of rich people’s houses. I have now decided when we do settle down I want a mosaic floor with pictures of me and C and our adventures!
Another mosaic we loved was the fisherman and the types of fish you catch, just like the aboriginal cave paintings in kakadu.
Interesting were the marble statues, easy to dismiss as they were only copies- copies done in C4th AD of a C1st statue! Still bloody old.
We bombed around that island like locals, C driving like a champion rally driver, me navigating and helping by scrunching my toes to brake and lifting my pelvic floor to help clear potholes. Avoiding cars, people, goats and sheep, both with their big hairy coats and clanging bells (a sound you hear everywhere, at first I thought it was birds)
Lesvos is also famous for its thermal springs, we went to the cera springs and spent a lovely hour or so floating around naked in a huge dreamy pool with cat face spouts (it used to be a temple) and water rushing down stairs to form a sort of spa. No pictures of course but it was heavenly.
Finally, the petrified forest. A highlight, what a highlight! It was perfect time of year, gorgeous day, spring like weather (apparently it bakes in summer). Remnants of a rainforest, huge trees fallen and some standing, older than dinosaurs. It was just unbelievable, we were the only ones there and spent a couple of eerie hours wandering about.
Speaking of highlights, how could I almost forget the amateur dramatics?? We had lunch on Independence Day and the lady said there was going to be some dancing at 6.30.
We turned up, we were of course the only ones there, apart from proud grandmas, until 7.15 and it started 7.30, but oh the drama!
Molyvos’ answer to kate blanchett (the one in the wig-we suspect writer, director, producer and star) was in tears when we arrived, being comforted by some others.
The 2 teenage boys were being cool with their girlfriends (apparently unaware they were wearing the national costume-white skirt and bobbly shoes)
We saw the whole village arrive, chatting, clacking worry beads, choosing seats, moving seats….
Then the action. Women sang and then took it in turns to recite poems -some very stirring! Then, the little play where they enacted the history. Needless to say we are no clearer on the history of Independence Day, but we did have a marvellous evening!
Lesbos on Lesvos!